Osaka (and Hiroshima), Japan

Okonomiyaki

Cabbage-and-batter pancake griddled at the table, topped with sweet-savoury sauce, mayo, bonito flakes, and seaweed — Osaka or Hiroshima, two different dishes by the same name.

Photograph of Okonomiyaki

Okonomi means as you like.

The name translates roughly to "grilled as you like it." The base is dashi-and-flour batter mixed with shredded cabbage; from there, the eater picks the additions — pork belly, prawns, octopus, mochi, cheese, kimchi. Each regional and household version is its own dish. The unifying element is the four-topping finish: okonomi sauce, Japanese mayo, *aonori* powder, dancing *katsuobushi* (bonito) flakes.

4 · Plate

Osaka (and Hiroshima), Japan

Okonomiyaki

Cabbage-and-batter pancake griddled at the table, topped with sweet-savoury sauce, mayo, bonito flakes, and seaweed — Osaka or Hiroshima, two different dishes by the same name.

The Osaka working-class dish that became a Japanese institution. Okonomiyaki has roots in Funoyaki — a thin Edo-period crepe with miso — but the modern form, with cabbage as the bulk ingredient and a sweet-brown finishing sauce, was a postwar invention when rice rationing pushed cooks to find a wheat-based meal that felt substantial. Osaka’s konamon (flour-based dishes) tradition — including takoyaki, kushikatsu, and udon — comes from this same era.

The dish exists in a third regional form too: Tokyo monjayaki, which keeps the okonomi-yaki ingredients but uses far more liquid and cooks the result into a runny, hot-griddle-skim that the eater scrapes off with a tiny spatula and eats directly from the iron. Tokyo doesn’t pretend it’s the same dish; monjayaki is its own category.

Osaka mixes, Hiroshima layers.

Osaka-style: all ingredients folded into the batter, poured onto the griddle as a single pancake. Hiroshima-style: each layer cooked separately on the griddle — thin crepe, cabbage mountain, pork, noodles, egg — then stacked and pressed. They're fundamentally different dishes. Both call themselves okonomiyaki and both regions will tell you the other is wrong.