Beijing

Peking Duck

The dish that engineers a bird — air-dried skin, mahogany glaze, three courses from one duck.

In repertoire since Feb 2026

Photograph of Peking Duck

Skin is the point.

Every step in the classical preparation — inflating the duck to separate skin from meat, blanching with boiling water to tighten the skin, glazing with maltose, hanging in a cool dry room for a day — is engineered for one outcome: skin that shatters when you bite it. The meat is incidental. The skin is the dish.

2 · Plant

Then, the plants.

Each ingredient held water and minerals, built sugar out of light over weeks or months, ripened, and was picked. A few ingredients (salt, water) came from a different elemental story.

  • Ingredient

    Whole duck

    1 whole Pekin duck, 2.2–2.5 kg, with head and feet on if possible

    Ask the butcher to leave the head and a flap of neck — they help suspend the bird during drying.

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Maltose syrup

    3 tbsp maltose syrup (or honey)

    Maltose gives the deeper mahogany glaze; honey works but the colour is lighter.

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Rice vinegar

    3 tbsp rice vinegar

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Shaoxing wine

    2 tbsp Shaoxing wine

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Five-spice

    1 tsp Chinese five-spice

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Spring onions

    1 bunch spring onions, white parts crushed (for the cavity), greens julienned (for serving)

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Ginger

    Thumb of ginger, crushed (for the cavity)

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Cucumber

    1 small cucumber, julienned

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Mandarin pancakes

    24 Mandarin pancakes (thin steamed wheat pancakes)

    Buy frozen from an Asian grocer; steam to thaw.

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Hoisin sauce

    120 ml hoisin sauce

    Origin not yet authored

3 · Cook

Then, the kitchen.

Heat, time, salt, fat, acid — the recipe that turns the ingredients into something more than their sum.

4 · Plate

Beijing

Peking Duck

The dish that engineers a bird — air-dried skin, mahogany glaze, three courses from one duck.

A dish older than the city it’s named after. Roast duck cooked this way appears in cookbooks from the Yuan dynasty (14th century); by the Ming the technique had moved to Beijing, and by the Qing it was a court dish. Quanjude — the restaurant that more than any other defines modern Peking duck — opened in 1864 and still uses ovens built to the original design.

The home version is an exercise in approximation. You will not get the inflated skin or the fruit-wood smoke or the carving theatre. What you can get, with patience and a fan, is the crackle.

Three courses, one duck.

Skin first, brushed with sugar and eaten on its own — that's what people line up for at Quanjude. Meat second, rolled in pancakes with hoisin, spring onion, and cucumber. Bones third, simmered into a soup that turns milky-white and tastes nothing like the bird you remember roasting.