Osaka, Japan

Takoyaki

Spherical batter balls with a piece of octopus inside, cooked in cast-iron half-spheres and turned by hand with a skewer — Osaka's street snack that requires equipment.

Photograph of Takoyaki

The turn is the technique.

The takoyaki griddle is a thick cast-iron plate with rows of half-sphere wells. Batter is poured in, octopus dropped in, and at the critical moment — when the outside has set but the inside is still liquid — the cook tucks the underside up with a metal skewer, rotating each ball through 180 degrees so the wet batter pours into the cavity below and forms the second hemisphere. A great takoyaki cook flips a tray of twenty in ninety seconds with two skewers, never breaking rhythm. A novice ends up with broken eggs.

4 · Plate

Osaka, Japan

Takoyaki

Spherical batter balls with a piece of octopus inside, cooked in cast-iron half-spheres and turned by hand with a skewer — Osaka's street snack that requires equipment.

The Osaka street snack that requires its own piece of cookware. Takoyaki was invented in 1935 by Tomekichi Endo at a stall called Aizuya in Osaka — Endo had been making radioyaki (batter balls with various fillings) and added octopus after a customer suggested it. The dish stuck. Osaka adopted it as a regional icon, and takoyaki-ya — small shops dedicated entirely to making it — sprouted across the city.

Variants travel. Akashiyaki from neighbouring Hyogo Prefecture predates takoyaki by a century — a softer, eggier ball with octopus, served plain in a dashi broth rather than with okonomi sauce. Most Osakans consider akashiyaki the dish’s ancestor. The Osaka version is the export hit; the Akashi version is the parent.

Hot enough to burn the roof of your mouth.

Eaten directly off the toothpick they're served on, still bubbling-hot. The interior batter never fully cooks — that's the dish; the consistency should be molten-custard at the centre. Every first-time eater scalds themselves. There is no graceful way around it; the dish is too hot to be cool about.