Meiji-era Japan (via British India)

Katsu Curry

Panko-crusted pork cutlet over rice, smothered in dark Japanese curry — a salaryman lunch that became a global comfort dish.

Photograph of Katsu Curry

Japanese curry, not Indian curry.

Japanese curry — *karē* — is its own cuisine. The British navy taught it to the Japanese navy in the late 19th century as a stewy adaptation of Indian curry; Japanese kitchens added caramelised onion, apple grated for sweetness, and a roux that thickens it into something closer to a beef stew than to any subcontinental curry. The result is dark, sweet, mildly spiced, and unmistakably Japanese. Anyone expecting Indian flavour will leave confused; anyone expecting a stewed-meat-over-rice will leave full.

4 · Plate

Meiji-era Japan (via British India)

Katsu Curry

Panko-crusted pork cutlet over rice, smothered in dark Japanese curry — a salaryman lunch that became a global comfort dish.

A dish whose lineage runs from Tamil Nadu to Tokyo via the British Royal Navy. British sailors in the late 19th century learned a stew-style curry in colonial India; the Royal Navy made it shipboard rations; the Imperial Japanese Navy adopted it from the British in the 1870s; civilian Japanese kitchens picked it up from naval canteens in the early 1900s. Each step changed the dish — and by the time it landed in domestic Japanese cookbooks, it was a beef stew with curry powder, not an Indian curry.

The combination with tonkatsu came in the 1940s when Tokyo’s department-store restaurants started adding the cutlet on top. Today, katsu curry is more popular than either plain curry-rice or plain tonkatsu — the union has eclipsed both parents. Chicken katsu curry is the lighter variant; beef katsu curry exists but is rarer. The plain karē raisu still sells in vast quantities at curry chains and at home from the boxed roux.

Tonkatsu first, curry on top.

The cutlet is fried separately and laid over the rice; the curry sauce is ladled over both. A pickled red side (*fukujinzuke* or *rakkyo*) is the conventional accompaniment, sharp against the sweet sauce. A spoon, not chopsticks — the standard Japanese cutlery for a curry plate.