Delhi, India

Murgh Makhani

Delhi, 1950s — tandoori chicken meets a tomato-cream gravy and travels around the world.

In repertoire since Mar 2026

Photograph of Butter Chicken

A leftover dish that conquered the world.

Butter chicken started life at Moti Mahal in Delhi as something to do with the previous night's tandoori chicken. Char the cold birds in a tomato-butter-cream sauce, season hard, finish with kasuri methi. By the 1960s it was on every Punjabi restaurant menu in North India; by the 1990s, on every Indian restaurant menu everywhere else.

2 · Plant

Then, the plants.

Each ingredient held water and minerals, built sugar out of light over weeks or months, ripened, and was picked. A few ingredients (salt, water) came from a different elemental story.

  • Ingredient

    Chicken thigh

    800 g boneless skinless chicken thigh, cut into 4 cm chunks

    Thigh, not breast — breast goes dry in the long simmer.

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Ginger-garlic paste

    3 tbsp fresh ginger-garlic paste (equal parts)

    Pound fresh in a mortar — store-bought pastes are watery and lack the pungency.

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Kashmiri chili powder

    1 tbsp Kashmiri chili powder (mild, vivid red)

    Kashmiri is mostly colour, little heat — it makes the gravy red without making it inedible.

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Turmeric

    1 tsp ground turmeric

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Garam masala

    1 tsp garam masala (for the marinade) + 1 tsp (for the gravy)

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Cashews

    30 g raw cashews

    Soaked in hot water for 15 minutes, then blended into the tomato base — they replace some of the cream and give body.

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  • Ingredient

    Butter

    100 g butter, divided

    Makhani means buttered. This is not the dish to economize.

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  • Ingredient

    Heavy cream

    150 ml heavy cream

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Kasuri methi

    1 tbsp kasuri methi (dried fenugreek leaves), crushed between palms

    The flavour that makes butter chicken butter chicken. Skip it and you have tomato-cream chicken — a perfectly nice dish, but not this one.

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Sugar

    1 tsp sugar (to balance the tomatoes)

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Ghee

    2 tbsp ghee (for charring the chicken)

    Origin not yet authored

3 · Cook

Then, the kitchen.

Heat, time, salt, fat, acid — the recipe that turns the ingredients into something more than their sum.

4 · Plate

Delhi, India

Murgh Makhani

Delhi, 1950s — tandoori chicken meets a tomato-cream gravy and travels around the world.

Of the dishes that international Indian restaurants have made famous, this is the one that’s closest to its actual origin — most home cooks in Delhi today would recognise a restaurant butter chicken as part of their own tradition.

That’s not always true elsewhere. The British-Indian chicken tikka masala is a related dish but not the same one — masala is heavier on the spice, less butter-cream-led, and the chicken pieces are larger. Murgh makhani is the gentler, butter-forward parent.

Crush the kasuri methi.

Between your palms, over the pan, off the heat. The crushed leaves release a smell that fixes itself in your kitchen for an hour — and that smell is the signature of the dish.