Levant — disputed (Lebanon, Palestine, Israel, Egypt)

Falafel

Raw soaked chickpeas, fistfuls of fresh herbs, a hot fryer — the Levantine street snack that travels everywhere and stays recognisably itself.

In repertoire since Sep 2025

Photograph of Falafel

Chickpeas never cooked.

The non-negotiable rule of falafel: the chickpeas are soaked, not cooked. A raw chickpea, soaked sixteen hours, is hard and starchy; processed with herbs and fried in hot oil, it holds together as a crisp shell around a tender, almost-fluffy interior. Cooked chickpeas hold too much water; falafel made from canned chickpeas (or worse, hummus) falls apart in the oil and tastes of nothing.

2 · Plant

Then, the plants.

Each ingredient held water and minerals, built sugar out of light over weeks or months, ripened, and was picked. A few ingredients (salt, water) came from a different elemental story.

  • Ingredient

    Dried chickpeas

    300 g dried chickpeas

    Dried only — soaked, never cooked. Canned chickpeas have already absorbed water; falafel made from them is wet and falls apart in the oil.

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Yellow onion

    1 medium yellow onion, roughly chopped

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Flat-leaf parsley

    Large bunch flat-leaf parsley, stems and leaves, roughly chopped

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Cilantro

    Large bunch cilantro, stems and leaves, roughly chopped

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Ground cumin

    2 tsp ground cumin

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Coriander seed

    1 tsp ground coriander

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Cayenne

    1/4 tsp cayenne pepper (optional, for heat)

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Baking soda

    1 tsp baking soda

    Added just before shaping. Lifts the texture and gives the crackle when the balls hit the oil.

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Sesame seeds

    60 g sesame seeds (optional, for coating)

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Neutral oil

    1 L neutral oil, for deep-frying

    Origin not yet authored

  • Ingredient

    Pita and pickles

    Warm pita, pickled turnips, sliced cucumber and tomato, hummus and tahini sauce, for serving

    Origin not yet authored

3 · Cook

Then, the kitchen.

Heat, time, salt, fat, acid — the recipe that turns the ingredients into something more than their sum.

4 · Plate

Levant — disputed (Lebanon, Palestine, Israel, Egypt)

Falafel

Raw soaked chickpeas, fistfuls of fresh herbs, a hot fryer — the Levantine street snack that travels everywhere and stays recognisably itself.

The other half of the Levantine bread-and-spread plate, paired naturally with [the hummus on the other page]. Where hummus is a deliberate, patient dish — soak, cook, blend, plate — falafel is a fast, hot, last-minute one. Both depend on dried chickpeas; both are improved by a fistful of herbs.

There’s an unending debate about which country owns the falafel — Egypt argues that ta’amiya, made from fava beans, is the original; Lebanon and Palestine point to long traditions of chickpea-based street-corner frying. The truth is probably that it emerged in several places more or less simultaneously, and that the question is the wrong question. The dish is Levantine. The arguments are political. The recipe doesn’t change.

Eat within ten minutes.

The crust is the dish. Fry, drain, plate, eat. By the time the falafel is ten minutes old, the steam from inside has softened the outside and the crackle is gone.