Jakarta, Indonesia

Gado-Gado

Blanched and raw vegetables, hard-boiled egg, tempeh, and tofu over a thick peanut-sauce dressing — Indonesia's mixed-vegetable salad, the cousin of satay's peanut sauce.

Photograph of Gado-Gado

Mixed, not arranged.

*Gado-gado* literally means "mix-mix" — the dish's identity is in the act of combining. Ingredients are arranged on a plate but the eater mixes everything together at the table with the peanut sauce, fork and spoon working through the lot until each bite carries every element. A photo-friendly composed-salad version misses the dish's point; gado-gado is a stir-mixed bowl by intention.

4 · Plate

Jakarta, Indonesia

Gado-Gado

Blanched and raw vegetables, hard-boiled egg, tempeh, and tofu over a thick peanut-sauce dressing — Indonesia's mixed-vegetable salad, the cousin of satay's peanut sauce.

A dish older than modern Indonesia. Gado-gado is a Betawi (Jakarta-area) creation that pre-dates Indonesian independence and was already being recorded in Dutch colonial cookbooks in the 19th century. The peanut sauce — shared with sate’s dressing — is a Javanese signature; the assemblage of boiled vegetables is its own thing, with no obvious parallel in the surrounding regional cuisines.

Gado-gado is also the kindest entry point to Indonesian cuisine for vegetarians and the curious. The dish can be made entirely meat-free (the terasi shrimp paste is the only animal product, and is optional in many home versions). It carries the flavour fingerprint of Indonesian cooking — sweet from palm sugar, sharp from tamarind, savoury from kecap manis, hot from chili, salty from terasi — in a single accessible plate.

Krupuk for the crunch.

A piece of *krupuk* (prawn cracker) is the dish's textural punctuation. The salad is soft — boiled vegetables, soft tofu, sticky peanut sauce — and the cracker breaks the rhythm. A serving without krupuk is missing a sentence.